John Bedini’s Cole-Bedini (window) Motor, an other gift of him to the people
Image 15 I call it: “Torquy” Posted: November 17th 2006
When you build your first window motor use a steel or brass shaft through an armature core of 2″ hexagon steel 5″ long (unless you have an extra long 7/16 and 1/2″ drill bit) and 1x1x1 neo magnets (two 1″ cubes have more lifting capacity then one 1x1x2″ cube) with three coils complete using 2 - UGN3020T’s Hall preferable for the switching. The perm. setting of the N and S Hall are at 180 º opposing each other, whereas the three magnets on the little disc are on a 120º spacing, giving you a total maximum “off” period of 90º or 25%. Hence it is evident that you have to switch both the N and the S. Use the Cole Bipolar schematic for now with two power silicone transistor MJE3055, NPN, two MJE2955T, PNP, 10A, 60V and two MPS8599 amplifier transistors (PNP’s). This is enough info to make it work. Now you have the full Cole-Bedini Motor schematic and more of John’s drawings right here. Wind your first three coils bi- or quad-filer #18/23AWG or quint-filer #23AWG, image 16, that way you are not committed to hall switching. Twisted wire gives you more voltage also the coils end up deeper…whoa Betsy…!!!! Update Oct. 21-08—–>Do not use the twisted wire. The result of the twisted wire is less voltage out.
Hold the wires of the coil together with lacquer and cloth or super glue in spots (it has to be slightly flexible) as one unit before you take it out of the jig (wax the jig). Also while the coil is still sitting in the jig set up a jig for a plastic epoxy bearing (drinking straw slide fit)at the N and S end, which will take a brass or SS rod threaded with a shoulder both sides on the outside edge parallel to the shaft in the center of the coil thickness to secure the coils in cylinder form and equal spacing.
If you switch it properly you can make it run itself. Don’t give up if it does not work the first time. Use pots on all the resister and keep adjusting the timing. Move things around be aware on one hand that my drawings or text can be mistaken or misunderstood, on the other hand it should keep your mind occupied for a good start with all this info towards sure success. Use a big capacitor and let the motor charge the capacitor while you spin it, by tapping either coil for the AC, incl. the red one, at different times over a full wave bridge rectifier (FWBR) to the capacitor with the running leads of the motor also hooked to the capacitor……
Yes, there is three ways of self running this motor. The easier one is the 1st. With commutator switching from the energizer back and forth between battery and motor. Keep in mind that you can’t charge a battery while extracting energy from it at the same time without destroying it like they do in cars. 2nd. Tapping AC from one or more coils via FWBR directly into a big capacitor while running the motor from that capacitor. 3d Switching a relay with a 555 timer via a bipolar transistor– If you are wise, then you know how you have to handle this new gained knowledge!! Ron Cole apparently wasn’t and drank himself to death as a result!…….
Advanced Bedini Monopole /Solid State Energizer/Earth battery hookup with the explanations further back in his book
Make sure you keep an eye on the written text, all you need to know to make it work, you’ll find right here in my pages. If you think not, then buy John’s book with the latest window motor updates! Sorry, there is no window motor updates in his book. I just received the book in the beginning of August 07! The most interesting pages to me are the off whites of the magneto or free energy generator. Next are pages 46 to 48 about the Advanced Bedini Monopole/Solid State Energizer and Earth Battery Hookup. If it is to far fetched for you then just pick it up on a later date… perhaps when you buy Rick’s kit for the back end, then it will “click-click” for you!!!!!.. at http://rpmgt.org/order.html. Also study JB’s website: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/ The motor won’t likely run itself unless you construct it as show on this pages. For the last 7 years no one has publicly shown Bedini replication success for beginners (with God’s help) as I have within this two last years. What is a taught theory or picture worth if you can’t see the practical application for building it to make it work, apropos helping your neighbor. No sooner I had added drawing #11, which is image 15, to this page, John Bedini came out with his self runner demo and motor specifics. I am sure John Bedini didn’t publicize his window motor Dada so it might be lost to some selfish controller. Here it is. Don’t get nervous waiting for the file. It’ll take at least 3 min. for the 16 drawings to appear on your screen!
No relay is needed to run this Window Motor!!! Had you known my page content, you would also have had your doubts about Mike’s motor! Never the less his publicity of my page was great; thanks Mike! I made drawings # 4 and 5, one using a relay, but never used the relays in my motors because they are not reliable, so why waste the time and effort. Although if you are the person who has the time and tinkering spirit then this next drawing is for you:
Image 15 b This is John Bedini’s schematic which I took the above drawing from.
Work it until you have it. I can guarantee you that it works. I am not going to prove anything by video. John did it, which should be good enough for anybody and enough incentive to get going on it and build your own. Don’t forget the big wheel for kinetic energy to give the motor momentum, the bigger the radius of it the better. If you can install a pulley to pull start the motor (rob one out of an old lawn mower or read “Cone start” under start up), to pressure up that cap quickly, you’ll have instant Volt-torque for RPM acceleration. John Bedini demonstrated the motor with one coil to us through a video by just rotating the rotor by hand and said: “I would really like to have a mass, like the other, but I don’t have it”. He is talking about a fly wheel for kinetic energy.
Make sure the magnetic poles are N and S in line, the N-pole is switched on the N-pole side of the “A” field of the coil while the S-pole is also switched on the opposite “A” side of the same coil in intervals. It is entirely possible that the coils which are setup “in phase” are in charging mode on one capacitor while a second coil marked in red “out of phase” is running the motor from another capacitor!!! Perhaps the second cap could be pressured up and then dumped into the first cap. I am far from an E. engineer, but flexible thinking helps 
. Through trial and error I will get to where I am headed, so be patient with me when you see blunders I am making. I’ll fix them as I see them.
The commutator in image 14 and15 above, which is my design, is a mechanical switch, it works with HV if you can keep the brushes from burning up at high voltage. To quench the sparking off of the segments use a washer or strip of incombustible asbestos with the cyl. or long brushes. The SSG or window motor is just a mechanical way of triggering this radiant energy and the copper wire is the collector of it, and it closes the loop to charge the battery.
I built the commutator or better on-off-switch in a similar way as I pour my little rotors/spools. See the write up under “2a Commutator” in my work shop. I used two sizes of copper pipe. One I cut in an angle clear across, the other bigger one I silver soldered the inside “ID” and machined it out to the same OD as the commutator and cut it into segments for the brushes.
Cole-Bedini PMDC Motor update
Be aware that this Motor can be setup and switched in a number of different ways. Also be aware that we have been riped off by the elite cartel right to the very basics in how to run a generator. If a certain generator is set up with “two more coils” 90º apart with a capacitor the generator can be operated as a motor/generator running itself after it has been started with a pull cord!!! Remember I titled my website “for the fight-4-truth”!
This is a front view of the window motor with three coils. You have to make yourself a wooden jig to wind the wire onto in order to get the proper shape of the coil, which is wide on one side and narrow on the other. The marked coil in red is a 90º added coil in testing at the moment. I tell you why with this story:
I am not sure whether the person who told this story would take it kindly if I use his name here, hence I never asked him, I’ll leave it out. It is also an example of the satanic cowardly ways the elite use to oppress or kill a soul for not cooperating. Enough prove for the story being true is the demonstration of self running the window motor :
To All,
During world war two, two GI’s wandered into a little town in Germany. The Two Gi’s were shown a BOSH generator that was modified; they crated it up and sent it home. The device used a pull cord to start it, once it was started it ran itself at 5000 rpm’s and lit 300 watts worth of lights, any more it would quit. The secrete to the machine was switching and a special capacitor made from waxed butcher paper. Without the capacitor it could not transform the spike from the motor. It was called the Lockridge device, he built this with Delco Generators that he took apart and modified by adding “Two more coils” 90 degrees apart”.. The switching, When the machine quit running the brushes failed, people would go to the auto parts store and buy brushes install them and the machine would not work. Lockridge did not tell them that he sanded the brushes smaller then the commutator segments, so the people sold them for the copper. Lockridge was hunted down by the department of energy and they could not get him for anything, so they worked on his wife who became the town H….. , Lockridge went nuts and poured gasoline on himself and lit the match. The machine was never seen again. I know about this machine because of a good friend who talked to people that owned them. This was a real machine that ran itself closed looped, the Cole/Bedini motor can do the same thing without the brushes. The switching must be right along with the generated output. We have all the best magnets today to do this, he says.
Image 16a is a copy of a C/B Permanent Magnet Direct Current (window) Motor sketch out of my shop note book. This is the motor I am using to drive the high pressure DC-magneto to run my high-impulse Motor-Dynamos and spark gap discharges for the Electro Radiant Transceivers, the Tesla-Cone, the Grey tube or both.
Image 17 The coil winding jig for the three coils
While you design your own jig, use a wood dowel the whole length in the center of the jig with an outside diameter by adding 1/8th to the OD of the magnet rotor which would give you the inner radius of the coils . Add a small wood plug at the end of the big dowel for clearance of the coils over the rotor shaft. Keep in mind not to glue, but to bolt down the top two wood plates in order to remove the wound coils after!
When you install the coils build a frame around the coils/motor for tying them to it for rigidness.
Source: http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html
Has anybody built one that can vouch for it working other than the one’s selling the schematics? In other words… has anyone tried this out?
As Ron Coles cousin I can assure you that Ron did not drink himself to death. He died of cancer.
B.S. comments like this really do a disservice to Ron’s work and are disrespectful to his family.
Ron himself told me his phone was being tapped and though he never told me directly I have no doubt a huge amount of pressure was being put on him. Remember this was back in the 80′s when the public had little of this information, and guy’s like Ron and John were right in the crosshairs of TPTB. Ron had a family with a wife, two son’s and a daughter. I doubt if you were in his shoes you could handle it better. Yes Ron liked his Miller high life and smokes but that’s not what killed him. He was one of the smartest men I’ve ever met and I miss him greatly.